D16Z6 JRSC Install Help

[JRciv]

Did you look under the hood at idle to make sure the bypass is opening correctly?

[creechrr]

Originally posted by JRciv:
Did you look under the hood at idle to make sure the bypass is opening correctly?

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">No, I have not. Isn't load required to get the valve to open.

Also, I was mistaken when I said I ran a vacuum line from the bypass valve to the manifold. I actually ran the line to the purge cut solenoid, as per directions. I have the top fitting on the purge cut solenoid going to the charcaol canister and the bottom going to the bypass valve.

---ISNTRUCTIONS---
54. "Connect a new 10" vacuum hose from the purge cut solenoid valve, mounted on the firewall, to the vacant fitting (capped off) on the firewall side of the superchargers by-pass valve. This fitting is between the supercharger and the intake tube."

[creechrr]

Originally posted by creechrr:


Also, I was mistaken when I said I ran a vacuum line from the bypass valve to the manifold. I actually ran the line to the purge cut solenoid, as per directions. I have the top fitting on the purge cut solenoid going to the charcaol canister and the bottom going to the bypass valve.

---ISNTRUCTIONS---
54. "Connect a new 10" vacuum hose from the purge cut solenoid valve, mounted on the firewall, to the vacant fitting (capped off) on the firewall side of the superchargers by-pass valve. This fitting is between the supercharger and the intake tube."

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I just figured it out. By comparing the D16Y8 instructions w/ what previous posters have said.

The top fitting on my bypass valve should go to a fitting between the SC and S-tube. The other fitting on the bypass valve should go to the purge cut solenoid.

Does that make sense?

[JRciv]

Wait wait wait - I figured it out.

Okay, first of all, the purge cut valve is a simple valve that opens the charcoal can to the intake stream. One hose from the purge valve goes to the charcoal can, the other must go to vacuum. That way, when the valve opens, vacuum is allowed to suck the fuel vapors out of the can so They can be burned. So bottom line, the purge valve must be connected to a vacuum source.

At idle, the engine is creating vacuum. The charger blades are not spinning fast enough to make boost and the engine is using it's own vacuum power to draw in air. This is what opens the bypass valve. Under boost, the engine vacuum disappears and the valve shuts. So with your car idling, you can look under the hood and should see that the valve is open (usually not all the way, just enough to relieve boost). Or, if you have a boost gauge, the gauge should read zero at idle if the valve is opening correctly.

I think you figured out the problem. My guess is that the lower bypass nipple is connected to the upper bypass nipple so that it can leach off some of the vacuum power. Do this simple test - with the car idling, put your finger over the lower bypass nipple. If you feel suction, then I would keep it hooked up the the purge valve like you have it set up now.

[Tad3d]

purgecut valve is nonessential

if he has one, and wants to hook up that vacuum line to it. he can(good for the environment/smog).

if he doesnt want to hook it up, or doesnt have one.
he can leave that vacuum nipple plugged and will be fine also.

his fueling should be #1 on his priority list honestly.

[creechrr]

I finally have the bypass valve hooked up correctly. I drove the car for a bit today. I it runs much better now but not perfect. Now I need to put time into tuning.

I'll be using the EFI Systems PMS as management for now. CPA will helping me tune in the near future... [img]wink.gif[/img]

At the moment I have it set up to run rich. The boost portion of the map isn't too bad. There's a stunble at 3000 rpm for some reason. I only got into boost very briefly just to make sure the SC was working.

Any advice on tuning strategies would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

[creechrr]

Bump for update and ideas...

I will be tuning via Uberdata. I'll be keeping the PMS around just incase.

Any ideas for a CARB legal intake. I'm running a GSR throttle body JDM B16 intake tube. This combination will not fit the stock airbox at all.

Any ideas?

[Tad3d]

just get a shortram

there are quite a few makers that are carb legal
both shrot and cai

[cpa]

I had the Injen 3" short ram, worked well. Do not do a cold air extension. Was CARB legal with a sticker for a B18C1 which would match your throttle body, but then agiain that technically wouldn't be CARB legal on a D16 if anyone looked it up. Is that Uberpooper setup CARB legal [img]biggrin.gif[/img] ? Let me know how it goes, and if you end up hooking up the PMS.

[creechrr]

Originally posted by cpa:
I had the Injen 3" short ram, worked well. Do not do a cold air extension. Was CARB legal with a sticker for a B18C1 which would match your throttle body, but then agiain that technically wouldn't be CARB legal on a D16 if anyone looked it up. Is that Uberpooper setup CARB legal [img]biggrin.gif[/img] ? Let me know how it goes, and if you end up hooking up the PMS.

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">That's the problem exactly. I'm running the GSR throttle body. All the CARB legal intake for the Civic are ~ 2.5". I could switch back to the stock throttle body but, everyone says a 3" intake is the way to go. There has to be a creative solution. I'll figure something out.